But, like most such things, it took a long while to diagnose the problem. It didn't help that in late fall, right about when the popping-out occurred for the first time, a friend had borrowed and accidentally driven the truck a long way in 4WD low, burning up the transmission fluid and blocking an internal solenoid temporarily. A "spill-and-fill" oil exchange procedure cured that problem, but it still popped out. (The buddy didn't know the transmission had to be in neutral to get from 4WD low to high.)
Eventually, by studying up on all the online Nissan Titan maintenance forums, I discovered a likely candidate in the front left CV joint to front differential flange. Apparently a weak C clip, a design flaw, causes the flange to pop out, which causes the diff to quit turning. In some cases the tip of the shaft breaks off. But the 4WD warning graphic on the dash remains lit as if it were in 4WD.
Here's a shufty of someone else's shaft showing the C clip (there's only one in the real item) and the tip broken off.
That little light was the eventual giveaway, although it took two days of study to figure it out.
I just switched out the driver side front axle flange today. It would have been an easy job if my lift wasn't covered in snow and all iced up. As it is I'm well knackered.
Winter is different in Maine, and my car lift is outside.
Some dudes from warmer states on the Nissan Titan FaceBook group insisted it was just as easy to do the diff as it was to do the axle flange! Not likely, given how much snow and ice moving and thawing out of machinery I needed to do just to get this one little job done. I could just see myself slipping on the ice trying to carry the diff into my shop to strip it down. And where would I work? The shop is full with the tractor and the snow thrower.
I also couldn't imagine finding enough time between snowstorms to switch out or rebuild the front diff. I need to move snow most weeks.
But the C clip on the old axle flange was obviously worn out, so I'm glad I ignored the guys on the Nissan Titan forums and FaceBook groups that were telling me I had to switch out or rebuild the diff instead.
Here's the part I bought from the parts house (their picture), showing the much beefier C-clip.
The FB dudes said that the spider gears would be worn, and they may well be, but that clip was the more proximate and obvious cause, and while the splines on the old flange were worn, they weren't worn badly. I expect the spider gears are in much the same shape.
Anyway, here's the videos of the procedure. The first two are just of the difficulties. The last is of the actual spannering. My truck should be fine for the winter now.
If I need to, I can still switch out or rebuild the diff in the warmer seasons.
Here's the procedure written out:
- Remove left front wheel
- With the wheel hub locked (screwdriver in the brake disc cooling holes, or put the right wheel on the ground), undo the big outer CV joint nut
- Undo the ABS sensor. Have a bit of wire handy to hold the wheel hub so it doesn't pull on the brake flex hose
- Remove upper ball joint and tie rod end split (cotter) pins and nuts
- Tap the joints with a hammer or use a "pickle fork" ball joint separator to get them free
- Undo the six 14mm head nuts that hold the CV joint/drive shaft to the flange. Move the CV joint out of the way
- Pry the flange out of the differential carefully
- Replace the seal. The old seal will pry out with a screwdriver. The new one can be tapped back in gently with a rubber mallet
- Tap the new flange in with a hammer and a long bar or pipe. I had to pinch the c-clip a little bit tighter. It wouldn't go in at first
- Everything else goes back on the way it came off. Be sure to torque the CV bolts to 54 pounds feet, to get the ball joint and tie rod nuts tight before backing them off to find the split pin hole hole, and to torque up the big CV nut to 100 pounds feet.
Enjoy!
No comments:
Post a Comment